The Seamstress
A Century of Innovation in Sewing
A Century of Innovation in Sewing
Sewing became a necessity when people found a need to cover themselves, whether through religious observance, or to keep warm. For centuries, it was difficult and time-consuming work as it was done with bone needles and animal sinew for thread and remained so until the Middle Ages when iron needles were invented, though it continued to be a task accomplished only by hand. A few centuries later saw the dawn of the first Industrial Age when new inventions became commonplace.
Halfway through the nineteenth century in 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for “a process that used thread from two different sources” (Bellis). This new machine caused riots because seamstresses and tailors believed the new machine would put them out of work and lead to rampant unemployment. The protests were so disturbing for Howe, that he did not pursue further research.
Howe’s abrupt halt in sewing machine research paved the way for the next wave of inventors, the most famous of whom was Isaac Singer. Singer invented the first true home sewing machine in 1851 (GradeEight). It used Howe’s dual-thread process in a machine that moved up and down rather than side to side as other early attempts did, and it was powered by a foot treadle whereas earlier machines were hand-cranked (Ament).
Other inventors added new parts or improved on them to make the machine more efficient. Allen Wilson developed an improved reciprocating shuttle in 1854. He went into business with Nathaniel Wheeler a year later and produced the rotary hook which replaced the shuttle. The success of this new spurred Elias Howe to lay claim to his original idea, which lead to numerous lawsuits, most of which were against Isaac Singer, for patent infringement. He won the legal battle that later lead to the formation of a Patent Combine between himself, Singer, Wheeler and Wilson, and Grove and Baker, that allowed them all to use each other’s research and make improvements to the sewing machine (Bellis).
Years later, Isaac Singer purchased Howe’s patents and created the first practical electric sewing machine. This early electric machine was utilized mainly in garment factories. By the turn of the century in 1900, Singer claimed 80% of the worldwide market for sewing machines and a half-century later, most homes had a sewing machine.
Halfway through the nineteenth century in 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for “a process that used thread from two different sources” (Bellis). This new machine caused riots because seamstresses and tailors believed the new machine would put them out of work and lead to rampant unemployment. The protests were so disturbing for Howe, that he did not pursue further research.
Howe’s abrupt halt in sewing machine research paved the way for the next wave of inventors, the most famous of whom was Isaac Singer. Singer invented the first true home sewing machine in 1851 (GradeEight). It used Howe’s dual-thread process in a machine that moved up and down rather than side to side as other early attempts did, and it was powered by a foot treadle whereas earlier machines were hand-cranked (Ament).
Other inventors added new parts or improved on them to make the machine more efficient. Allen Wilson developed an improved reciprocating shuttle in 1854. He went into business with Nathaniel Wheeler a year later and produced the rotary hook which replaced the shuttle. The success of this new spurred Elias Howe to lay claim to his original idea, which lead to numerous lawsuits, most of which were against Isaac Singer, for patent infringement. He won the legal battle that later lead to the formation of a Patent Combine between himself, Singer, Wheeler and Wilson, and Grove and Baker, that allowed them all to use each other’s research and make improvements to the sewing machine (Bellis).
Years later, Isaac Singer purchased Howe’s patents and created the first practical electric sewing machine. This early electric machine was utilized mainly in garment factories. By the turn of the century in 1900, Singer claimed 80% of the worldwide market for sewing machines and a half-century later, most homes had a sewing machine.
