Arizona
Published in Woman's Weekly magazine 30th October 2007
Arizona: Rails and Trails

The Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona, USA has to be one of the most prominent natural attractions in the world and was once famously described by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1903 as:
“The Grand Canyon fills me with awe. It is beyond comparison – beyond description; absolutely unparalleled throughout the wide world….You cannot improve on it”.
With such praise it isn’t hard to imagine why 5 million people a year are drawn to this staggering attraction and how it never fails to impress or offer something new to the intrepid explorer, no matter how often it is visited.
If you intend following in the footsteps of President Roosevelt it’s important to think carefully about what you would like to see and to plan ahead.
Distances in this part of the great outdoors are vast so instead of rushing around in a hired car consider some of my suggestions and follow in the footsteps of Native American tribes and Spanish explorers by discovering Arizona’s historic trails and railroad history.

After flying into Phoenix in the heart of the Sonoran Desert a two-hours drive north will take you to the little picturesque resort of Sedona, which is famous for its red-rock landscape, and the Verde Canyon, known as Arizona’s other Grand Canyon. Expectations are high due to Sedona’s success at being voted The Most beautiful Place in America by USA WEEKEND magazine and slogans such as “God created the Grand Canyon but He lives in Sedona”. Despite the hype, it is an agreeable destination blessed with four mild seasons marked by abundant sunshine and clean air.
Do not miss the opportunity to visit the futuristic looking Chapel of the Holy Cross perched on a spur of red rock some two hundred feet above the desert floor. The site was selected by Marguerite Brunswig Staude, who had held her vision of building a contemporary monument to God for almost 30 years. A noted sculptor, painter and jewellery designer, she saw art as “the search for the spiritual side of the universe”.
For the adventurous, Jeep tours are one of the most popular ways to explore the backcountry and learn about the area’s history, geology and wildlife. The Bradshaw family began giving tours on horseback in 1949 and are Sedona’s oldest continually owned family tour business offering a variety of tours including: Jeep tours, stagecoach rides and the ever popular horseback adventure. But be warned, as the ride can get very bumpy.
http://www.adayinthewest.com

Hikers should head to The Red Rock State Park just southwest of Sedona and noted for its awesome views along a series of gentle trails. Arizona’s famous Oak Creek meanders through this scenic park creating a diverse habitat for the plants and wildlife. A modern visitor centre provides the base for most activities including exhibitions and the opportunity to join in one of the Ranger led interpretive programs such as Guided Nature Walks, Bird Walks and Moonlight Hikes.
http://www.pr.state.az.us/Parks/parkhtml/redrock.html

Founded in 1880 and popularly known as the “Gateway to the Grand Canyon” the city of Williams is located in the middle of the Kaibab National Forest and the Bill Williams Mountain area. It will go down in history as being the last town to have its section of the famous and historic Route 66 bypassed but much of the downtown area featuring classic 1950’s style motels and neon fronted restaurants have been lovingly preserved and listed in the American National Register of Historic Places.
Check into the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel, which is modelled in style after the adjoining 1908 railway station and book your train ticket for the 5-hour round-trip to The Grand Canyon and follow in the footsteps of some notable passengers including Doris Day and Clark Gable.
There seems to be far more romance and sense of occasion about a train journey and what finer way to beat the traffic jams than from the comfort of a restored 1920’s Harriman carriage where the scenery changes from high desert, to prairie to pine before the train finally pulls up just steps away from the Grand Canyon South Rim.
The local Wild West marshal and his band of deputies provide plenty of entertainment for the passengers throughout the journey and the children will love the dramatic train hold-up by the cowboy villains who luckily get their comeuppance in the end.
http://www.thetrain.com

Much has been reported about the new Grand Canyon glass Skywalk but my advice is to forget it. Not only is hard to reach along a 15 mile bumpy dirt road but its in the middle of nowhere at Grand Canyon West on the Hualapai Reservation. Visitors must shell out at least $75 to walk on it - $50 for the least expensive day of activities on the reservation, plus $25 for the Skywalk and then you are not allowed to take your camera!
The train journey is far more appealing and the South side of the Grand Canyon is hardly over commercialised particularly by American standards. Accessibility is good with excellent disabled facilities and it is open all year round where other parts of the Canyon are closed due to heavy snow from late October to May. There is a self-guided walking tour of the historic Grand Canyon village but if you want solitude it is easy to escape the crowds by hopping onboard one of the regular free shuttle buses that travel along the rim of the canyon. Passengers can get off at various observation points along the way and savour the incredible views with a gentle hike back to the railway station.
There are plenty of information points and further details can be found at:
http://www.nps.gov/grca/
http://www.grand.canyon.national-park.com

Situated at the base of the majestic San Francisco Peaks, Flagstaff is an eclectic mix of big city excitement and historic small-town charm. The prosperity of the town relied on the construction of the railway in 1880 and the station now houses the Visitor Centre. Over 100 trains still pass through the town and at the Altitude Bar & Grill anytime a train goes by, they have a tradition that patrons take part in special ‘Train Shots’. The saying goes that if you happen to miss a train, don’t worry, many trains will go by before you leave.

The Verde Canyon is only accessible by train and is home to the bald eagle, America’s national symbol. Despite a frightening drop in numbers throughout America, the North Verde Canyon continues to provide nesting for several pairs of breeding eagles and supports more than 30 wintering bald and golden eagles. They are an amazing sight and if you are lucky you may spot one from the open-air viewing car on the scenic train ride from Clarkdale to Perkinsville.
Acclaimed as Arizona’s longest-running nature show, this four-hour scenic excursion onboard the Verde Canyon Railroad follows the path of the upper Verde River offering panoramic views of the dramatic desert landscape and ancient Native American ruins.
For a taste of the old west history and hospitality, head to the nearby Blazin’ M Ranch and experience a cowboy style extravaganza of entertainment and supper. Set in an old style frontier town you can try your hand at lassoing or horseshoe throwing before the bell rings for a communal all-you-can-eat barbecue served in the main barn. It’s all a bit cheesy for an old cynic like me but if you like your entertainment wholesome then you will enjoy this family entertainment.
http://www.verdecanyonrr.com

If you fancy a spot of ghost watching I can heartily recommend a stopover at The Grand Hotel in the old mining settlement of Jerome. Built in 1926 in the Spanish Mission style, this former hospital is perched high above the town and offers wonderful views of the entire Verde Valley’s majestic red rock vistas. The hotel is supposed to be one of the most haunted buildings in Arizona and many a tale has been told of strange paranormal activities and occurrences.
http://www.jeromegrandhotel.net

The town itself has a fascinating history full of stories of how the “wickedest Town in The West” drew men and women from all over the world in search of fortunes in the boom years of copper mining. From its external appearance, nothing seems to have change in nearly 100 years but instead of mining for copper, the local artistic community have tapped into a rich vein of dollars from the bustling tourist trade.

Before your flight back from Phoenix, treat yourself to an overnight stay at The Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale. Situated in the cooling foothills of Pinnacle Peak in the High Sonoran Desert, this resort offers stunning panoramic views of the rugged desert terrain featuring the mountains and the city lights of Scottsdale.
http://www.fourseasons.com
If you can tear yourself away from all the wonderful facilities including a 12,000 sq foot spa and fitness centre, a visit to Taliesin West, the nearby winter home of the architect Frank Lloyd Wright is a must. Built into the desert, Taliesin (pronounced Tally Ehssen) literally means “shining brow” in Welsh, the nationality of Wright’s ancestors and is regarded as on of his greatest masterpieces. Not only did the building provide a stunning home and studio but he also welcomed a succession of aspiring architects to come and study with him.
http://www.franklloydwright.org

If it’s desert adventure you are looking for then why not try a tour in a Hummer, America’s most advanced 4x4 motor vehicle and experience the excitement of an award winning tour through the Sonoran Desert. It’s pretty hair-raising at times as this huge vehicle negotiates some seemingly impossible desert terrains but its great fun and half way through the trail is the chance to stretch your legs on a nature walk.
http://www.dshummer.com


Fact Box
For more information on Arizona, visit http://www.arizonaguide.com

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