While shopping for winter jackets, I realised that it is impossible for me to tell where exactly the feathers of mass-produced down jackets came from [1]. Therefore, I attempted making my own down jacket in a relatively harmless way: by manually collecting the goose feathers on the grounds in the parks [2], riverbanks, and forests near my house in Breda, the Netherlands.
After two months of collecting [3], cleaning, filling and sewing, the jacket was put to test in the High Arctic (Spitsbergen archipelago) for three weeks to see if I can survive [4]. During this sailing expedition of The Arctic Circle Residency [5], I made 21 landings and glacier hikes between 78°17'N-80°02'N, wearing only this jacket and minimum base layers. A guide booklet “A Step by Step Guide for Making Your Own Down Jacket” was designed based on my experiences to allow everyone to make a down jacket from where they live.
[1] Despite recent regulations, there are debates about the percentage of down production that still involves animal-cruelty.
[2] These parks are common habitats for escaped farm geese, and migrating Canadian geese.
[3] Approximately 3000 feathers collected, 80 grams (50% of what I initially aimed for).
[4] Body condition was monitored with temperature sensors, thermal camera and heart-rate sensors.
[5] Sailing period: 2nd-16th October, 2017, right before polar winter.
Down (project trailer)
Escaped geese from farms near Kapittelweg, Breda.
September, 2017
Downy feather collecting at Kapitalweg, Breda, The Netherlands; Sep. 1st, 2017. The goal is to collect 200-300 feathers per harvest.
The geese were extremely loud; the neighborhood sent their kids to check what were going on.
Collecting, cleaning the goose feathers and making the jacket (video stills).
Sailing/landing route in the Arctic (Spitsbergen), Oct., 2017.
From 78°17,9' N, 013°56,4' E to 80°02,2' N, 014°33,1' E.
Zodiac ride before Ymerbukta Landing, Spitsbergen.
78°17,9' N, 013°56,4' E, 3rd Oct., 2017
Bockfjorden landing. Evaluating the effectiveness of the jacket.
79°27,7' N, 013°12,3' E; 8th Oct., 2017.
Thermal Analysis, Fjortende Julibukta
At the Southern shore of Fjortende Julibukta, Svalbard. By comparing the surface temperature (T1, red) under the jacket, before and after putting it on for 30 seconds. T1 rose by more than 3 degrees Celsius.
79°6'0" N, 11°48'0" E; 5th Oct.
Location, route, chest surface temperature sensor readings of the Trollkjeldene hike - Oct. 9th. 79.39°N, 13.44°E.
Photo: Trollkjeldene, 18km hike, near the Mars rovers testing site. Oct. 9th, 2017. 79.39°N, 13.44°E
Landings (video stills)
- Martøya, 79°19,8' N, 11°00' E, 4th Oct.
- Fjortende Julibukta northern shore, 79°07' N, 11°52' E, 5th Oct.
- Smeerenburg, 79°41,7' N, 010°58,7' E, 6th Oct.
- Ytre Norskøya, mountain to Utkiken, 79°51,2' N, 11°37,8' E, 11th October
"A Step by Step Guide for Making Your Own Down Jacket" Manual Booklet (A6, sample spread)
Concept by Sheng-Wen Lo
Designed by Yi-Hsien Hung
Installation view
Dimensions variable, and can be adapted according to space.
In this installation (BredaPhoto 2018), the map of Breda was designed and printed on the floor. Videos of the production/collection process in Breda are located and placed on the map. The map's orientation was calibrated to align with the real world.
The testing expedition in the Arctic, as well as the jacket and sensor data, are installed on the walls. Not shown in this installation view are the thermal video (in a smaller screen) and experimentation photographs on the other two walls.
